|Seller notes:||“See photos”|
|Safety Features:||Alarm, Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS)|
|In-Car Audio:||AM/FM Stereo|
|Modification Description:||See photos|
|Car location:||Kenilworth, United Kingdom|
Chassis Front end is all Audi TT including, braced subframe, cast lower arms (power flex poly bushes), ARB, uprights and steering rack. This offers better handling and better geometry set up for lower cars. Steering is quicker and turn in improved over the normal set up. Very desirable upgrade. Nankang NS2R tyres all with good tread. Great tyre once warm and in the dry. You have to be a little carful in the wet and they are not quietest. Fifteen52 18inch genuine wheel. All in need of a refurb but look great when done. If you were wanting to improve handling I’d sell these and get something lighter. Rear has a White line ARB on medium setting. One of the best mods to improve handling when coupled with the front end stuff. Stance+ adjustable coil overs. These are budget and feel like it. Front ball joints, track rods, ARB drop links , top mounts all less than a year old when I tried to find a knocking noise which turned out to be the suspension unit itself so had that replaced also.
EngineAUM engine with a map which would be similar to a stage 2. K04 -001 turbo. This is the only K04 I believe you can get that uses the same 3 bolt fixing to the manifold giving More power than the K03s variant. Milltek exhaust and downpipe with sports Cat. Has been repaired in the past and unfortunately has a hole in it again so needs looking at. Forge motorsport or creation motorsport silicone hose in most places. Forge motorsport actuator Forge motorsport front mount inter cooler. Carbotech or something like that air filter. Basically places the air filter in cold air away from the engine. Short shifter on the gearbox side. Billet oil and An fitting on the oil breather. The originals are known to be brittle and crack if looked at wrong. EVAP and N249 delete. Aluminium water housings and thermostat housing replacing the old plastic ones. Metal water pump. The engine was replaced and doesn’t have the same mileage on it as the car. Was 30,000 miles less. The previous owner had told me the cam belt had been done which it hadn’t and the old plastic water pumps fail which results in broken engines which is why I had to replace engine.Can’t remember but I’m pretty sure when we changed the engine we put a VR6 and lightened flywheel in. Does feel like it is but can’t be certain. 120amp alternator upgrade. Meaning you could run extras like a heated screen which you can get now. Last 2000 miles was serviced with Millers oil fresh NGK plugs, oil filter is off the TDI, has a larger capacity so is meant to help slightly in keeping oil at the right temp. Same stuff I use in my 400bhp mk2 20v golf. Lower temp thermostat.
Other bits Anniversary wing mirrors (electric and heated) Anni rear spoiler Boost gauge single steering column pod wired in but not plumbed in.Anniversary rear view mirror (black) so it’s not an eye sore when you look through the windscreen.Sheeran rear badge, best mod as it’s slighter smaller and fits inside the dimple at the back. Compared the VW frisbee they normally put on. Double din head unit Recaro seats, drivers side is worn and passenger needs a decent slam back to get it to lock. Rear seats removed Glass bung for the rear wiper delete. Looks way cleaner compared to the rubber ones in Halfords. Bora air vents although centre one is marked and the light one is totally broken/missing. Rear seats removed
TLC required Airbag light comes on, needs a resistor under the drivers seat. Engine light comes on due to a random clutch switch that pings it every no and again. You can turn it off but will come back on maybe a week or month later. It’s not breathing right at the moment. So hasn’t boosted right for the last 2 years. You can drive around it so up to 3000rpm and it’s fine. On cold mornings it stutters but once warm is fine. I’ve just never been bothered to fix it as over the pandemic I’ve barley had to use it. It always starts and drives which is all it’s needed to to. But has meant for the last few years any miles it’s done haven’t been hard miles. It could be something as simple as a recirc valve. I had changed the N75 but didn’t seem to make a difference. Hole in the Exhuast. MOT wise it was touch and go on the emissions and with this hole in it now I’m not sure you’d get it through with repair or replacing the part. It’s where the exhaust had been welded before. After the CAT. So you’d only need to replace the downpipe/cat section or decat it? Or weld it better. AC not working, just needs recharging I think never bothered me. Heater works a treat. Front wings have some rust where the arches had been rolled, Rear tailgate has the standard rust issue under the handle. Scratches etc on paint. Luckily it’s reflex silver so parts are common and cheap to find. I have tried to be as honest as possible in this so please don’t waste my time. It is a good spec and has a lot of desirable mods. But it does need tidying up to make a good road worthy daily or track car. Or if you are breaking it then please be set up for this.
I am selling as I have just started a new job a little further away and will need to use it daily again and fuel etc just doesn’t make sense. I’m selling now before the MOT (16th Dec 2021) to give someone the opportunity to drive it away rather than trailering it. Not looking for swaps as I have another car lined up.
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