|Number of Cylinders:||4|
|Drive Side:||Left-hand drive|
|Warranty:||Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty|
|:||“Excellent - restored/rebuilt”|
|Car location:||Greenfield, California, United States|
|For Sale By:||Private Seller|
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 - California Car.
Complete bare metal restoration started 3 years ago. Original Light Ivory / 11.
Matching Numbers. (Original Engine) Transaxle I was told by Porsche cannot be verified but I would bet based on how the car was stored that the transaxle is original to the car. The car is originally from Van Nuys, California.
Here are only some of the highlights of what I have and or done.
Original Fuchs (5 - including the spare)
Engine completely rebuilt with original bearing size (it was well within standard specs). In fact the machine shop owner was amazed at how nice the crank was. It was polished and prepped. Other Machine work done (Midway Engine Builders, Salinas, CA)
2056 Upgraded Cylinders and pistons from Auto Atlanta.
Original 2.0 heads completely professionally rebuilt. (At Engine Machine Service in Inglewood, California)
40 IDF Webers from Red-line (Not the Chinese ones)
Mild Cam - Slightly more performance but matched to the 2056 with Webers. (Elgin Cams, Santa Rosa).
High Flow oil Pump.
I also have the original (Complete) fuel injection system with brand new Jeff Bowlsby Wiring Harness.
Tangerine Racing oil pressure relief, external oil cooler and oil breather catch-can/return system.
Original chrome bumpers, center console. Correct silver dot 150 MPH speedo and Tach. Original clock out of car but I have it and it works. Updated hole with a oil VDO PSI gauge in it's place. Replaced the factory correct (Which I have) Temp gauge with a Stacks unit.
Both sides of the floor pans (rear halves) were replaced with new metal. The fronts were perfect. The hell hole was replaced with solid 914 replacement metal including a new battery tray.
Transmission seals and gaskets replaced.
New Porsche pressure plate, clutch disc and throw-out bearing. Flywheel is original and resurfaced.
New shift bushings (Complete)
Complete 914 rubber restoration kit - ALL new rubber (Doors, windows, top, suspension, bumper rubber, everywhere) and countless misc parts. $5,102.57 and there's more receipts from 914rubber..trust me.
New Starter, After market fuel pump for lower volume (Webers). New Bosh alternator.
New Factory (Boggie) front shocks, Bilsteins on the rear.
New Stainless fuel lines from front of car (Tank) to engine.
New 914-Rubber Dash and front Pad.
Upgraded Halogen Headlights (H4's). All four Brake calipers rebuilt. All new Stainless Brake Lines and rubber as well. New Master cylinder and reservoir.
Gas Tank insides cleaned, and filter/lines replaced. Exterior primmer and painted with correct black from 914rubber.
Original Becker Europa Radio. Original speaker covers with newer speakers mounted inside.
Complete German carpet kit (Including trunks). Coco mats too.
Side windows and rear are original VW glass. Front windshield was to far gone and I replaced it.
European rear tail-lights. Fronts are NOS U.S. Style.
Seats have been recovered with 914-rubbers hounds-tooth pattern. Side door panels are also all new from 914-rubber. Correct style for my 1973.
Chrome rear mounted luggage rack and a set of Piper ski racks (That I bought in 1977....my first 914).
Extra insulation behind the rear seats as well as a new behind the seats 914-rubber kit (New vinyl and forms)
New door springs. All new felt/rubber in doors.
Front suspension completely rebuilt including bushings. New Rear sway bar bushings and new swing arm bushings.
The Top looks brand new with all new rubber/seals. The fit from the windows to the top are excellent.
The car has maybe 3000 miles since the complete restoration. There are a few items that need some TLC and I will mention those below. It drives like a brand new 914. It's fast and it idles great and you could drive it anywhere. This is my 5th 914 over 40 years and the one I wanted for my wife and I to tour in but long distances might prove to be a little rough for us these days (Were in our 60's now and despite what I thought I could live without, well A/C is required). It's fast, nimble and a joy to drive. The Stainless Steel heat exchangers give off a noisy tinny sound that I don't really care for but they will last a long time. I bought them used and there in decent condition. I have the original heat-exchangers but I wouldn't use them. The muffler is stock and was in great shape. I blasted it, primed and painted it. It is also fitted with a O2 sensor Bung which helps tune the carbs. On a side note, when the car was taken to bare metal, I was amazed how unmolested this car was (Less the hell hole area and rear floors - Rust). By unmolested I mean I could not find a single point where the car had been hit.... at all. Plenty of parking lot dings but it's straight and you can tell when your driving it. The gaps are near perfect and everything opens and closes like it should. As it sits now there is ZERO rust. I HAVE the Porsche COA (certificate of authenticity) and receipts a mile thick. Let's face it. The 1973 2.0 is only second to the 914/6 with respect to collectability. They are becoming very desirable especially being numbers matching. All new metal seams were welded, prepped and sealed with German "Wurth" from Auto Atlanta.
The engine was broke in with BradPenn break in oil for @ 500 miles. Valves were done at that time and has had two additional oil changes/filters with BradPenn 20/50. Valves done @ 1000 miles ago. Used Jake Raby's CD to assist in the rebuilding of the engine. After many rebuilds in my years I actually learned a few things. I have very strong oil pressure and with Chris's (tangerine Racing) external oil cooler it does a great job at keeping this 914 cool. Far better than stock. The car never leaked on drop of oil until a few weeks ago. Discovered that my drivers valve cover gasket, the top had apparently missed the clip and sagged letting some oil out the top on hard cornering. I also had a mishap when I put the webers on and didn't have Tangerine Racings breather/catch can and managed to splatter some oil in the engine bay. I would summarize the car in this way. It's rust free. Solid and straight. Mechanically sorted and I have already put several thousand miles on it. I live in a very rural area where agriculture is paramount. The roads are dusty/muddy and gravel riddled. The pictures under the car show a driven car, not a garage queen. Yes 3000 miles ago the bottom of the car looked brand new as well as the wheel wheels. I keep the car clean but the reality of keeping the bottom of the car immaculate is just well.....not a reality. First drive out and it's trashed again.
So, here's what needs to be looked into and or issues as I see it and want to be completely transparent about it. I'm a mechanic and decent welder but painting can be tricky for me. Especially when your doing it in your lower garage. The materials are top shelf , the gun was top shelf but my abilities are not..... just ok. The car looks great but there are a few spots that I missed (Very small dings). I also burned through the rear fender edge when I was cutting the paint. Also had an incident with the automatic garage door with the rear trunk open and there's a scratch (not a dent) on the rear of the trunk. Also some slight blemishes so it's not concourse perfect. The drivers door will lock but sometimes you have to wiggle the key slightly to get it to turn the tumbler and lock. The ignition can also be tricky in that sometimes when you turn it off, you have to wiggle the key/tumbler and she shuts off. There worn. The rear trunk tumbler does not work with the ignition key. The front trunk lock does work with the ignition key as well as the passengers door. The windshield washer unit, well I replaced the tire pressure unit with a 911 electric motor and it works but the switch for that located in the right column lever needs some attention. And it would appear that I only have one speed on the windshield wipers.
I welcome foreign bids as I have sold two Porsches to Germany in that past 15 years. Bottom line, wired cash needs to be in my account before the car leaves my home. I will assist with the coordination with your shipping company for the pickup of the car at my home. I will keep insurance on the car until the monies have been received in full and reside in my bank account. Insurance after that will be your responsibility. - I'm located in South Monterey County, Central Coast of California. I would encourage you if you have the time and means to get here to come check it out. Drive it and I also have a lift and full shop here so we can get it in the air and check it all out.
With respect to the mileage. I can only have two sources of good information. The actual odometer and the crank out of the original numbers matching case. The fact that the crank was in such good condition and was within original bearing specs tells me that the mileage could be correct. BUT, who the heck knows. I have a top rating for eBay and stride to be transparent with what I sell. IF you have any questions, please feel free to reach out.
All sales are final and the car is being sold "as is" with no written or implied warranties.
* * Shipping * * ALL shipping costs are the responsibility of the buyer.
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